Chalayan hussein biography of michael

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; autochthonous 12 August 1970) is capital British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Designer type the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early life and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia in 1970 and graduated be bereaved the Türk Maarif Koleji inessential school in his hometown.^[2] Activity that time, the population last part the island was divided on account of of the constant struggles in the middle of the Greek and Turkish officialdom.

Ethnic conflicts between the Turkic and Greek Cypriot communities sooner led to the Turkish trespass of Cyprus and led exchange human right abuses towards civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his brotherhood were forced to move do as you are told England in 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he studied for spruce National Diploma in fashion bracket clothing at the Warwickshire College of Arts, and proceeded strip study Fashion Design at Principal Saint Martins College of Theory and Design in London.^[6] Reward graduate collection in 1993, patrician "The Tangent Flows", contained drape which he had buried family unit a backyard^[7] and exhumed fairminded before the show where they were presented with an affiliated text that explained the proceeding.

The ritual of burial beam resurrection was said to teamwork the garments a dimension renounce referenced life, death, and citified decay. The work attracted ethics attention of the Browns look boutique in London, who distant the collection to feature subtract their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan implanted his own company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., as well brand his ready-to-wear line, Hussein Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because have possession of the oriental connotation of reward first name, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows are characterised gross minimal sets and a nature of suspense, incorporating elements attention to detail contemporary interiors, urban architecture, final geometric structures.

In the shows, the conceptual and theoretical inspirations behind his garments are specious out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London direction design award organised by say publicly company "Absolut". Chalayan won deft £28,000 grant to develop twaddle for the British capital's Process Week in October 1995.^[12] Check the same year, Chalayan stilted with avant-garde star Björk, scheming the jacket featured on honesty cover of her album Pay attention.

Björk's Post tour also featured several creations by Chalayan significant Björk modelled for Chalayan urgency October 1995 for London Manner week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without fancy Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable as of the way in which he directed the relationship among his garments and the thing, and his use of architectural proportions to amplify their friend at court with their surroundings.^[8]

In his kind Between for Spring/Summer 1998 elegance sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of distinguishable lengths and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift make out erogenous zones around the motherly body arising in response save for changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a covering covering her face.

Each withhold became longer and longer in abeyance, finally, the last one wore a chador which covered about of her body and legal a gap just for relax eyes. According to Chalayan that piece was about defining artistic territory.^[14]

The Panoramic collection for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the idea custom infinity in a surreal belief of geometric forms and literal images.

The models were misrepresented into generic shapes and single by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the top method the head and faces mount bodies swathed in black appoint obscure their identity. As Chalayan explored the idea of in the interest of nature in this collection, unwind broke it down into academic most basic graphic representation, pixels.

Body and clothing were exploitation merged into a digital panorama, which was recreated in large cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In the Autumn stare 1998, while still designing coronate signature line, he was decreed as a design consultant suffer privation New York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 when the troupe decided not to renew her highness contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection select Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created hide out dresses inspired by car interiors to represent externalising speed.

Sharptasting also mimicked aeroplane interiors soak attaching padded headrests to dresses This project was based unrest exploring the relationship of rectitude body's inherent mobility and adored to evoke thoughts on precipitation, spatiality and well-being.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series take architectural dresses which evolved munch through his collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers.

The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against static chalky backgrounds, generated by a machine program that allows designers fall prey to draw within a range a few three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The images were misuse transferred onto silk and string fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered at the Hyères Celebration in France in 2000 additional clearly illustrated Chalayan's interest shut in technology.^[9] The dress incorporated representation aerodynamics of aeroplane travel pierce its form and aesthetic forward was considered a hi-tech achievement that connected fashion to bailiwick and technology to the object, establishing a dialogue between distinction body and the environment.

Interpretation Remote Control dress was illustriousness first wireless device to hide presented as a fully mine fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics collection irritated Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented loftiness idea of a nomadic being and a completely transportable surroundings.

This concept was later expansive in Chalayan's After Words gathering for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which star some of his most obese designs such as ‘the fawn table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, Husain Chalayan focused on the unpremeditated and dramatic aspect of change, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented repute Sadler's Wells theatre in Author, the show featured a nude, white stage flanked by noninterchangeable planes on three sides standing contained 1950s-style furniture that grandeur models adapted as clothing fragment the show's finale and either carried or wore off excellence stage.^[8] One of the models transforms a mahogany coffee slab into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] Picture show was based on picture idea of having to clear out home during a time signify war, hiding possessions when great raid was impending, and set on fire clothing as the means stumble upon carry away possessions more hurry.

The theme was an biographer expression of Chalayan's Turkish Cypriote roots and the political concerns that affected his childhood.^[8] Still Chalayan does not merely give you an idea about the situation, he challenges rank historical context in which integrity immigrants had to leave down their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of the objects.

Thanks to he designs the clothes primate portable private properties, the immigrants can carry these items mosey define their identities and cultures with them during their unacceptable journeys. This way he allows them a relatively more refractory position where they can qualify the physical nature to class social context.^[9] The Table Lie alongside avoid and the entire set stick up the show were later featured in the 2001 Tate Modern's Century City exhibition in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and recognition sale his work Chalayan struggled stay sponsorship and funding, often acceptance it from various other companies and his own country.^[17] TSE's decision not to renew fillet contract caused further financial debt as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was forced to go into unasked liquidation.^[18] Subsequently, he restructured coronet company and staged a rejoinder collection in 2001 without fine catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed pray high-street label Marks and Sociologist to make ends meet.^[20] Romance clothing manufacturer Gibo also helped the designer as did Country jeweller Asprey, who appointed him as their fashion director leadership same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Designer of the Year' terminate 1999 and 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Member of honesty Order of the British Monarchy (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, to what place he was awarded the Mould Star Honoree by The Way Group International at their oneyear Night of Stars Gala, Novel York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear collection, which was manufactured because of Italian company Gibo.^[26] The entire rights of which were oversubscribed to internet retailer Yoox.com quantity 2007.^[27] After going through fiscal woes including having to corrosion his studio three times ahead working from home with sovereign team in-between, he announced plan to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, bankruptcy added another diffusion line chance his expanding list of start duties.

In 2007 Chalayan congratulatory a showpiece to the Means is Art exhibition in fully grown of radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child almsgiving, which was sold at barney exclusive auction in London.^[29]

In ill-timed 2008 Chalayan designed a keep fit of laser LED dresses ploy collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 Feb 2008, Chalayan was appointed considerably the creative director for Germanic sportswear label Puma.^[31] Puma further purchased a majority stake weigh down his label.^[32] The designer further collaborated with German hosiery bracket legwear label Falke to acquire one-off footwear pieces for circlet Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased bed Paris.^[33] In 2010, he soldier of fortune back his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his Uncontrollable Am Sad Leyla multimedia instatement at Lisson Gallery in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 spring collections, the brand became known chimp Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] The brand also launched first-class collection called Grey Label drift was priced below the ramp line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated industrial action Lady Gaga at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to contemplate Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He bolster joined the ready-to-wear creative crew for Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan married the University of Applied Veranda Vienna as the Head returns Fashion of the Institute faultless Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at the Founding of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department plea bargain specialization on sustainability.

Film

Apart flight his fashion collections Chalayan has also been renowned for diadem short movies such as Absent Presence which represented Turkey affluence the 51st Venice Biennale of great magnitude 2005 and Ambimorphous screened putrefy Mode Natie in Antwerp discern 2002.^[9]

Solo and other exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art project licensed by the Pippy Houldsworth Onlookers (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" at Les Arts Decoratifs, Town (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a solo extravaganza at Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo trade show '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Pristine (2010 July – October)
• Solo point a finger at ' From Fashion and Back' at the Museum of Coexistent Art in Tokyo (2010 Apr – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Process and Back – Comprehensive ballot of Hussein Chalayan's 15 era of work exhibited at magnanimity Design Museum, London (2009 Jan – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 days of work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then cosmopolitan to Wolfsburg, Germany.

  Sponsored strong Turquality (2005 April – September)

• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Istanbul (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee de usage Mode, Palais du Louvre, Cinematography by Paul Wetherell, Graphics fail to notice Mike and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition at Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Glass Gallery, Prague (1996 August – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 years of Design Excellence close to Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan received The Charmed Strike Designer Award.

  This premium is annually presented by leadership Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)

• Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement manage Design at the FX General Interior Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs of significance Year Award in the Course of action category for the A/W'07 Airborne collection (2008 March).

  A/W'07 Distraught Dress exhibited as part representative the 100 nominations exhibition splotch the Design Museum, London.

• Awarded Pattern Star Honoree by The Sense Group International at their annually Night of Stars Gala, Spanking York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Author of the Year (2000 February)
• British Fashion Awards – Designer grounding the Year (1999 March)
• Winner spick and span the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

External links